for Your New Leopard Gecko
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Origins: All Leopard geckos you find today are captive born. Some sources say Leopard Geckos currently take top honors as the most popular lizard (after green anoles).
Size: Smaller Leopard Geckos are more common since they cost less. The adults mature at six to eight inches.
Foods: Even little Leopard Geckos will eat non-living prey. This makes them very easy to care for. A frozen pinkie per week helps keep them in the “pink.” However, make sure you thoroughly thaw it, and make sure it is fresh. Dead pinkies start decomposing very rapidly. Leopards will also eat the canned lizard foods. Get yours eating the pelleted foods as soon as possible.
Supplements: Because their bones grow so much, Leopard Geckos need calcium supplements on their insects. The calcium supplement should also include vitamin D3 so they can assimilate the calcium. Some breeders give them a small dish containing the calcium/vitamin supplement. Females need it to make egg shells. Others use a calcium substrate. Others warn against small particle substrate which they often eat in search of calcium. Sand can theoretically clog up their digestive system.
Branches, Rocks, Etc. Leopard geckos need more than a bare cage. Add anything for them to crawl on. They like the challenge and need the exercise. You need lots of places like this if you keep several together.
Clean Up: Leopard Geckos produce droppings that quickly dry. They usually pick the same corner for their lizard latrine -- very neat lizards. Clean them up often. A vacuum cleaner wand speeds up the process. Don’t get that wand too close to your little lizard.
Lighting: Since Leopard Geckos prefer to come out at night, they do not need full-spectrum lighting. They do need incandescent light for extra warmth.
Heat: An under-cage heater probably works best. Heat rocks take forever to warm up. Leopard Geckos prefer a warmer temp at one end, so just put the hearing pad under one end. Check their droppings. If you notice undigested insects passing through, they need more heat.
Water: Leopard Geckos drink very daintily from a water bowl. If you mist them occasionally, they learn to accept it. At first they will protest the sudden shower by growling at you or chirping. Big ones protest even louder.
Mixers: If you mix large Leopard Geckos with smaller lizards, they may eat them. Keep yours well fed. Provide several small hide boxes when you cage several together. Too many in the same cage will cause them stress.
Wet Box: Give your
Leopard Geckos small
containers filled with damp peat moss or vermiculite.
The new coconut fiber media work even better. They like to crawl into the extra humidity from time to time –
particularly at skin shedding time. Moisten the wet box medium
Tameable: Leopard Geckos
quickly come to realize that you don’t plan to eat them.
They usually learn to sit calmly on your hand.
However, excess handling will sometimes stress them.
Spencer Culbertson, July 19, 2010
I noticed that on your page for leopard geckos that you show two pictures of a male and a female, and you say which is which. You don’t say how you got that result. What exactly are you supposed to look for when sexing these geckos?
A: Good question. I'll add it and my answer to my leopard gecko page. Right below the vent on the male you can see two bumps. These bumps are his hemi-penis. No such bumps on the female. LA
Breeding: Sexually mature males want to fight. The females co-exist fine. Keep one male with several females or move him from female to female for stud purposes. She will lay two eggs in the “wet box” mentioned earlier.
Skinny. Looks hungry. Get some food and water into this thin leopard gecko.
Wills, April 25, 2006
A: If you mean this series of six skinny babies, we just bought these at a Reptile Exhibition. We've had them about two hours. They were in those little deli cups. We separated them by size and got them fattened up in about four to six weeks. LA
In Summary: If you want a cute, friendly, easy-to-keep lizard that puts up with people, take a look at the Leopard Gecko. LA
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