to Keep Your New Veiled Chamel eon
Misc Frogs II
Misc Frogs III
Misc Frogs IV
Misc Frogs V
Pet World Visit
Adult male veiled chameleon. Yes, he's ticked off.
Veil chameleons don’t grow to a dragon-size like iguanas --
just 24 inches including their stretched out tails but not their tongues.
Males grow nearly twice the size of the females.
Both make friendly pets but can bite if they want to.
Actually, their sharp, grasping toenails pose more of a threat.
Bright bands of yellow encircle a body color that varies depending
upon mood from bright green to dark green to blue.
Some also sport gold, orange, and black colors.
Arguments with other chameleons will trigger these color
changes. You could probably
tick veiled chameleons off with a mirror. Be
careful, you can stress them.
Not really bitey (like tegus and monitors), veiled chameleons can still give
you an unexpected nip if they so desire.
Those reared from babies seem more sociable.
Temp needs are not as critical for veiled chameleons as for the other
You can keep them at 75 to 80o during the day and
cooler at night. If your veil
gets sluggish or stops eating, warm him up.
Don’t just guess at the temperature.
Measure it with a reliable thermometer.
Give them plenty of room and a variety of climbing sites.
They also need cover within which to seek hiding places.
They depend upon their coloration to “blend in” but still need
hiding cover. The mesh-sided
Reptariums exactly meet the needs of veiled chameleons -- plenty of air
circulation and lots of extra climbing surfaces on the walls and ceilings.
Give them a full-spectrum fluorescent light.
Veiled chameleons need it mostly to absorb calcium into their bones.
Give them a vitamin A and D calcium supplement.
Very lightly dust the supplement onto their crickets.
A pinch of supplement in the crickets’ plastic bag will usually
suffice. Way better to prevent vitamin deficiency in a veil chameleon than
try to cure it.
Crickets and mealworms fill most of their needs.
But vary their diet if possible.
You can’t expect them to survive on a single food.
Adults will eat pinky mice. Most
veiled chameleons will learn to eat from your fingers. This
means you can offer a large variety of foods.
Veils will also eat plant leaves – especially the adults.
They use the leaves as a water source.
Fix veiled chameleons up with your standard chameleon “drip
system,” or mist them at least twice a day.
At about a year old, your veiled chameleons are ready to rumble (about three
times per year). Keep your
sexes separate except at breeding time.
Then put them in cages next to each other before putting them in the
same cage. When placed close
enough to see her, the male will turn very bright (usually blue), start
swaying back and forth, and ask her for her sign.
Unwilling veiled chameleon females turn very dark and move to the
other end of the bar. Willing
females turn bright green to express their interest.
Once he works his magic, separate them.
Some 25 to 30 days later, she’s ready to lay about 50 eggs.
Give her a five-gallon bucket half filled with damp sand. Or
a kitty litter pan with damp sand or vermiculite (unused, of
course). Or look into those coconut fiber pressed packs.
Remove the eggs and incubate at 86 to 88o for nearly
half a year. Feed the baby
veiled chameleons wingless fruit flies and/or tiny crickets.
The babies grow amazingly fast.
Handle your veiled chameleons as little as possible.
Keep them away from kids and other stressful situations.
Keep each in its own cage. Provide
a veggie clip holding Romaine lettuce leaves.
Experiment with bearded dragon pellets as a food source. You
never know. LA.
© 2003, © 2004, © 2005 LA Productions
3600 Sixth Avenue
Corner of Sixth & Euclid Avenues
Des Moines, IA 50313
Betta Breed 1
Betta Breed II
Betta Pla Kat
Pleco Costly I
Pleco Costly II
Pleco Costly III
Pleco Costly IV
Pleco Costly V
Pleco Costly VI
Misc Catfish II
Misc Catfish III
Misc Catfish IV
Misc Catfish V
Jack Dempsey Spawn
Jaguar Spawning II
Rainbowfish, Dwarf Neon