Keeping Your Red-Eyed Tree Frogs
Aqualand info on Agalychnis callidryas
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Next time you’re wandering thru the rain forests in Central or
Convenient Size. At two or three inches, red-eyed tree frogs are large enough to feed (not like mantellas and poison dart frogs) and small enough to afford to feed (not like pyxies).
Beautiful Appearance. One red-eyed tree frog picture is worth 1.5K words. These little cuties are beautiful. Here’s the Readers’ Digest version – brilliantly red eyes, attractive green body, bright orange feet and toes, and a yellow belly (which does not mean he’s chicken). Plus blue racing stripes on the side.
Not an aggressor except to other males at breeding time, your
red-eyed tree frog wants to sleep all day and dine at a more fashionable
evening hour. He will flash
his bright red eyes if you pester him during the day and enjoys being
disturbed from a peaceful snooze about as much as you do.
Temperature Needs. Red-eyed tree frogs fit right into your regular frog temperature needs – right around 75 degrees. Most zoos recommend providing a temperature gradient (one end of your vivarium warmer than the other).
Forget your full-spectrum lighting.
Red-eyed tree frogs hate bright lights – especially white
(full-spectrum) lights. They
need shelter from the light during the day and darkness at night.
Use a red bulb. They
can’t see red.
Don’t go all mental on your vitamin/calcium supplements.
A weekly dusting of your crickets will suffice.
Too many vitamins can cause problems also.
For best results, gut-load your crickets with nutritious foods.
Foods. All frogs eat anything they can swallow that moves. Crickets belong at the top of your red-eye tree frog menu. But … Give them more than one single food item. Look into mealworms, wax worms, moths, house flies, or whatever you find under your porch light.
Escapers. All tree frogs climb as high as they can. When you open their lid, the smart guys are ready to leap. Keep a good cover on your red-eyed tree frog.
Glass aquaria work best – not the critter cages with sliding
screen tops. You want to hold
in as much humidity as possible. The
plastic critter keepers also have too much ventilation.
Stick with a glass tank with a glass top.
Frog diseases are really hard to treat.
Practice prevention because you’ll have a tough time recognizing
it and then figuring out a cure. Keep
their tank clean. Feed them
well. Keep them warm.
Everyone’s first instinct is to want to pick up a red-eyed tree
frog and hold it. Resist the
temptation. You stress them
out and also injure their delicate skin.
If you want a frog you can handle, get a White’s tree frog.
Their waxy skin can stand up to handling.
Change their water daily. Dirty
water kills frogs. They need a
wet skin to absorb oxygen. If
their water gets dirty, they will stress out and be susceptible to
disease. Use as large a water
bowl as practical. Also, mist
them daily. They gotta have
high humidity to breathe.
Décor. Add beau coup plants and hanging vines. Your red-eyed tree frogs will appreciate the extra cover, and you’ll like the way your new terrarium looks.
Breeding. Not an impossibility. Male red-eyed tree frogs seek amplexus with the female. She hangs on the bottom side of a leaf which overhangs water. She lays her sticky eggs there one at a time -- some 30 to 50. She returns to the water to constantly replenish the water content of her eggs. Males keep competing to take part. Eggs hatch five days later and the tadpoles trickle or drop into the water. Some 75 to 80 days later, they metamorphose into froggies.
Last Word. Red-eyed tree
frogs are not a beginner’s frog. And
they’re best for people not emotionally attached to their cash.
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