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Intro. You may have heard that some people disagree
with my rodent information. You haven't? Heck, I'll
publish some of their comments for your edification. I'm
leaving out the ones with too many Anglo-Saxon expletives to edit.
And I probably deleted some as time and a half goes by. Read
them and make up your own mind. As usual, I went thru them
to correct their spelling and grammar (although it is sooo
tempting to publish them "as is"). Enjoy. LA
Bethany, November 6, 2006
I was reviewing your information on pet rats and found most of it to
be incorrect. I can't even list all of the things that you said
about rats that are wrong. To do so would take me a VERY long time
and I'm sure plenty of other people have done so already.
The only articles I read were about rats but I have a feeling that a
lot of
your information on other animals is probably incorrect. I know that
I can't
get you to take your entire site down or anything, but I do think
you need to
do your own research and post proper and correct information on your
site if you are going to inform people about animal care.
Sincerely
Well, some others have written. LA
Rosie, November 6, 2005
I just wanted to tell you how completely incorrect and incomplete
your
rat information was.
You should NEVER pick a rat up by their tail. It is extremely
painful to
them.
You were right about Cedar bedding being bad for them, but pine is
not
much better. Aspen, paper based cat litters (such as Yesterday's
News and
Biocatlet), and rabbit pellets are the only suitable litters.
Hamster and Gerbil food is horrible for rats. It is much too high in
protein and fat. Rabbit food (when it is not full of alfalfa
pellets)
is actually okay for rats. You also did not mention that many brands
of
lab blocks are not good for rats. KayTee blocks (and all of their
other
pet food) is horrible for rats. Most lab block brands are bad for
rats
(Mazuri is okay, Oxbow is okay, and Harlan Teklad blocks are great).
Another problem with the mixes you buy at the store is that a lot of
the
ingredients are not eaten by rats. Alfalfa, and the decorative seeds
are not edible, and most of the other food is very high in fat. You
did
not mention the homemade mixes that are very popular and healthy
(Suebees and the Molasses Mix), or how important fresh food is.
You did not mention how large rat cages should be, and I doubt yours
are
big enough (at least 2 square feet of space per rat). Aquariums are
rarely suitable for rats, and wire cages are the best option.
You explained the best way for rat mill breeders to breed. Not for
good rat
breeders to breed. You should not be explaining how to make money by
irresponsibly breeding rats. You should not have more than 2 litters
at
a time, or more than 9 in a year.
By keeping the male in with the females throughout birth you not
only
risk the male killing the babies (many males are aggressive with
babies) but you guarantee that the females would become pregnant,
while
they were nursing a litter, which would mean that they were raising
unborn babies, and nursing babies.
It is obvious that you know very little about rats, and should not
be
owning them, let alone breeding them.
I do have to add that it amuses me that some people think their
homemade mixes are superior to anything commercially prepared.
LA
Valerie, April 19, 2006
I am appalled by all the false information on your page. Being
a small animal breeder most of my life, I know about 80% of
the “facts” on your page are wrong wrong wrong!
General Small animal information:
Breeding Practices and Diseases:
On your hamster page, you say that “taking babies away from
mom before 6 weeks will make them more susceptible to wet
tail”. Any owners who don’t know any better could do that and
*whoops* all
their babies AND mom are pregnant before they ever should be.
In fact, hamsters and other small rodents (mice, gerbils,
etc.) should NEVER be bred before they’re at least 12 weeks
old for health reasons. Studies have shown that rodents that
are over-bred (result of keeping males and females together)
or bred at an early age have much shorter life-spans due to
unneeded stress of the litters! Not to mention that it’s like
your 12 yr. old kid having babies (something that can cause so
many complications that it’s not even funny.)
And another thing: unless they are dwarf hamsters (Roborovskis,
Campbells, Russian dwarfs, and Chinese), hamsters should NEVER
be housed with another hamster! Not only are Syrian hamsters
very much territorial, they are solitary except during mating,
and even then they separate pretty quickly once the female is
pregnant. And speaking of pregnant hamsters, they do NOT tend
to be more aggressive than the non-pregnant ones. Yes, you
want to be careful and mostly leave her and the babies alone,
but if she knows you very well (another reason not to breed
before 12 weeks or later) then she will act pretty much the
same as she always did towards you.
Diets:
Hamsters should NEVER be forced to eat ONLY “Lab blocks”! They
NEED their “variety diet” of seeds and other things provided
in products such as KayTee hamster and gerbil food. Lab blocks
should only be used for mice and rats, and that is in addition
to a seed/vegetable diet!
Mouse Information:
“If your
cute little pet mouse escapes, it becomes a wild mouse in a
few days. Keep your mice well covered. They’re determined
little escapers.”
Not true! Pet mice (not ones
caught from the wild, but bought from a pet store) are quite
content to live in their habitats, provided there are enough
things for him/her to do. And domestic mice do not become a
“wild mouse” ever. In fact, they tend to die within a few
days, due to the fact that their natural instincts are mostly
bred out of them (including their ability to resist diseases).
“Males will
also whup up on new females. Females are less territorial but
will often tear into new females. If you mix populations, you
will cause lots of needless fights. Rats will argue when you
mix them, but they seldom fight to the death. Rats like to
wrestle for dominance, but they don’t eat the losers. Mice,
on the other hand, are killers.”
Males generally will allow new
females to come in (due to their wont to mate). Females won’t
“often tear into new females” in fact none of my mice ever
have (and no, I’m not just “lucky”). Rats DO end up killing
each other when they fight IF it isn’t intervened in time.
Mixing female mice won’t cause “needless fights”, but putting
male mice together will. And once and for all, mice are not
“killers”.
“You
obviously like mice more than I do. I don’t
like the way they smell. I don’t like the way they bite. I
don’t like the way they destroy food. I don’t like the way
the males leave a little trail of urine where they run. There
were no dead mice on that page. The pinkie crawled inside
that peanut shell on its own. No mice or other rodents were
harmed or mistreated in the making of the Mouse Page. Get
over it. “
First off, mice don’t smell if
you clean their cages properly and leave one item that has
some of their scent on it so they don’t feel they have to mark
their cage all over again as much.
Second of all, mice don’t generally bite. I’ve been bitten by
hamsters about 40 times (approximately) and only “nibbled” at
ONCE by one of my mice and that was only because I made a
mistake and my hand smelled like food (and it didn’t even
break the skin, imagine that!). Males of all species “mark”
their territory, which includes male mice. And they don’t
leave it all the time, only when they feel something needs
their scent (like the insides of the cage or their special
human friends).
And about Leah’s page: she’s right, you’re wrong, get over it
and use her page to replace yours. Mice deserve the same
respect as a cat or dog.
About Ball Pythons:
- They
are too biters. I don’t personally own one, but my boyfriend
has one and he has been bitten several times in attempts to
remove it from his cage.
-
They do NOT “ball up” when
scared, they “ball up” because they’re in what herpers call
“mouse mode”, meaning that he’s hungry and he/she thinks
that you’re either food or going to provide food.
-
“Ball pythons often come to
pet shops directly from Africa.” Ok, stop right there. That
is the main reason that any reptile should never be a pet.
The fact that most of them come from the wild is the reason
that many species are starting to become extinct!
-
“Always provide a hide box.”
They do not need one at all. They are perfectly content with
a specialized “branch” to climb on and a clean corner to
sleep in.
-
“If you feed your ball python
live prey, whack your rat before you give it to your snake”
Many ball pythons never get big enough to eat any size of
rat. And snakes should NEVER be fed live prey. Not only is
it painful and traumatizing for the rat/mouse/rabbit to die
this way, the snake itself can become seriously injured (and
not because of “balling up” either.). Plus, you should NEVER
“whack” a rat or any animal. If you did that to any other
animal, you would have the ASPCA on your business and you
would be put in JAIL!
-
“Excess water gives ball
pythons a blister-like skin infection that often proves
fatal.” Not true. That would be from BAD water, such as
polluted.
Needless to say, you should
either take your page off the internet permanently OR take it
off and do some research BEFORE putting it back up!! Any new
pet owner could read this bullshit and take your advice and
end up with a dead pet thanks to you. Do you want that on your
conscience?
I guess having a boyfriend that owns a ball python makes you
an full-fledged ball python expert. I'll stop listening
to those knuckleheads that breed them locally. LA
Holly, November 6, 2005
The sections you have on rat care are really quite wrong and
ill-informed. I can take the time to point out several totally
wrong statements, however I will leave it simply put that it
seems the person that wrote this fact sheet was very
misinformed. I would advise the owner of this website to do a
little research and get some better articles relating to proper
rat care. I mean, how outrageous is it that someone thinks
hammie food will suffice for a rat?! They're totally different
creatures with totally different nutritional needs. And rats
should not be kept on anything at all minus a few select brands
that are the absolute healthiest. Pine CERTAINLY is not on the
'okay to use' list, and almost everything else contains phenols
which can cause serious respiratory problems AND failure if you
consider a rats disposition to upper respiratory infections.
'Treats' are a vital things for rats since they are omnivorous.
They should have a constant supply of fresh daily changed water
and lab blocks, with a daily supplementation of fresh fruits and
vegetables, grains and the OCCASIONAL bone, meat, egg or dog
biscuit.
Dog biscuits were listed as okay by the person that wrote this
article, but they didn't mention the side effects of an
omnivorous animal eating a diet too high in crude protein. It
can and will affect their health.
Your site should promote RESPONSIBLE breeding, and responsible
breeding is not keeping males and females together while females
have their babies. It is not using maximum amounts of females to
pop out the most babies. Do you understand how many horrible
people sell or give their babies to feeder stores once the
'glory' of breeding is passed?
And I can't even begin to wonder what possessed a captive rat to
eat her baby! Only rats in the wild normally do this to protect
themselves from predators. I bet that poor rat was feeling very
afraid when she did that, or is an exceedingly temperamental rat
that should not have been bred.
Speaking of breeding. where on your page does it say that people
should not breed unless they know about disease and infection
let alone GENETICS? Where are your links to vets for care? Where
is your discussion of tumors? Why is there a hairless rat with
babies, knowing full well most hairless are genetically prone to
having problems with lactation?Guh. You need to hire someone
with a better working knowledge of rat care to help you with
your articles. Considering Pine is the WORST shaving you can put
a rat on, I'm surprised cedar is only ever mentioned. That
absolutely astounds me.
This site is very, very wrong and very misinformed. I will
offer you the resources of my own website, and I offer to
rewrite the pages concerning the rats so that people buying
rats can actually give them the care they require to be
healthy, happy and live the long lives that are said they can.
Please visit
www.bananarattery.com for information on proper bedding
choices, feeding, and water requirements. Those are least
should be mentioned. I hope you have a good ratty filled day
:)
Thank you. I nearly
always have a good ratty filled day -- about 50 of the furry
little guys on on average day. LA
Rebecca, April 13, 2006
The information on your site
http://aqualandpetsplus.com under Rats is inaccurate. A link
to your web site is currently being passed around the Rat and
Animal Club communities with warnings to avoid doing business with
your company as a result of this. I suggest you update it.
1)
The comment "you may not want to pick up a pregnant rat by the
tail..."
you don't want to pick up any
Rat by the tail, especially once they reach adulthood. It can
de-glove their tail and trust me when I say that it's not a pretty
site and can be fatal to the rat. You may also want to remove the
photo of the pregnant rat being picked up by its tail!
2)
Pine is not recommended for Rats:
There is strong scientific
evidence that pine and cedar shavings are harmful to the health of
rodents. Both these softwood shavings give off aromatic
hydrocarbons (phenols) and acids that are toxic. The phenols,
which give the shavings their scent, are the reason that cedar
repels fleas and moths and why pine-oil is the major ingredient in
Pine-sol brand disinfectant. In the laboratory, autoclaved pine
and cedar shavings have been shown to inhibit the growth of
micro-organisms (Reference 1). When animals are exposed to
softwood shavings the aromatic hydrocarbons are absorbed through
the respiratory tract and enter the blood. The acids given off by
pine and cedar shavings are very damaging to the respiratory
tract. These acids can actually destroy cells that line the lungs
and trachea (2). This has significant implications for rats since
the most common diseases in pet rats are respiratory infections.
Many owners of pet rats have reported the improvement of
respiratory problems when they have switched their pets to a
bedding other than pine or cedar shavings.
3) Here are some
links to sites with accurate information on rats
Regards,
There were more negative
comments but I published them in my regular Q&A pages.
LA
© 2006
LA Productions
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